M1 Garand
M1 A
The rifles used in service rifle competition must be externally identical to the original USGI service rifles with few exceptions. The barrels can be heavy under the guards but externally they must be the same as the original service rifle. Internally, they can be modified but the trigger pull cannot be less then 4.5 lbs.
Rules change:
U.S. Service Rifle 5.56 mm M-16 series:
6.1.1 M16/AR15-Type Rifles
The rifle may have an optical sight (reflective sights are considered optical sights) with a maximum power of 4.5X installed on the receiver. Variable scopes with a maximum of 4.5X are permitted.
Only commercially manufactured scopes that were produced with a maximum magnification of 4.5X and that have a maximum objective lens of 34 mm may be used. If an optical sight is used, the same optical sight must be used in all stages of a course of fire ( changing sights is not permitted). The centerline of an optical sight shall be no higher than 3.5 inches above the centerline of the bore.
AR-15's can have the A1 or A2 stock only The hand grip must be the A2 type. The rifles are legal with or without flash suppressors and bayonet lugs. Basically the outside must be of the same outline and identical to the original USGI service rifle with exception to color and flash suppressor. The sling is the 1907 leather type (can also be made of synthetic materials) or the USGI M1 web type sling. The AR-15 can have the front sling swivel mounted on the float tube which is conceaed under the hand guards.
Rule change: 6.1.1 M16/AR15-Type Rifles
Butt-stocks may vary in length and be either fixed or collapsible.
Collapsible or adjustable length stocks may be adjusted during an event, but butt stocks that allow for other adjustments such as the cheek-piece height or butt-plate location may not be used. Only standard A1 or A2 type pistol grips may be used.
Only standard A1 or A2 type pistol grips may be used.
Rule change: The barrel may be no longer than the standard A2 barrel length of 20 inches measured from the bolt face to the end of the barrel (16" now allowed) flash suppressors are not required, but if the barrel has a flash suppressor the total length of the barrel measured from the bolt face to the end of the
flash suppressor shall not exceed 21 1/4”.
About Apertures
By Frank Krupa
National Match apertures in general vary from .030 to .060 Rock River offers the smallest at .030, Armalite uses .043 that can also be used as .050. Most people find .030 too small and opt for a larger aperture. It should be kept in mind that the smaller the aperture the more accurate the rifle will be, however this does not hold true if you cannot see through it. Some eyes, especially older eyes, need more light and will do better with a slightly larger aperture. The most commonly used NM aperture is .042 (or .043)
1/4 or 1/2 windage / elevation adjustment?
Simply put, it’s a matter of preference. 1/4 clicks will give you more finely tuned adjustments. This is good for a skilled shooter with an accurate rifle. Contrary to what some say, this is an advantage at any distance you will compete at. The down side is with the 1/4 click, you will have twice as many clicks to keep up with. Some feel that in competition this can be distracting and much easier to make a mistake. Again, it’s a matter of preference but in skilled hands the 1/4 will be more accurate as it will keep you centered in the X ring better then the 1/2. Remember at 600 yds the difference between 1/4 and 1/2 windage per single click will be approximately an inch and a half. Not much when you look at the size of the ten ring on a 600 yd target but still enough to allow you to leak out of the X ring or the ten ring or any ring.
Adjusting the front sight
I have never seen a front sight tool that will not scratch or mar the front sight. To avoid this use a Q-tip swab with the plastic stems (Johnson & Johnson) cut the swab ends off. To rotate the front sight post, push the plastic stem over the post and press the spring loaded plunger with something preferably plastic like a pen cap or if you must a bullet tip. While holding the plunger down rotate the post with the Q-tip stem. Remember with a National Match type sight, you will have to make your adjustments in complete 360 degree turns as there is usually only one side of the post that is suppose to face you. Some posts have been made that are two sided which will give you half of the elevation values by using 180 degree 1/2 turns. The A-1 sight will offer you 90 degree or 1/4 turns for finer adjustments. It is a good idea to put a drop of breakfree or similar on the post where it screws into the front sight base once or twice a year to keep the sight from getting frozen in place due to carbon deposits and rust.
Front sight post width
There are two schools of thought on front sight post width. One is that the post should be a little less wide then the aiming black you will be firing at. This allows you to center the black over the front post with equal space on both sides. Some believe that this configuration yields a finer more precise aim. A better way (in my opinion) is to have a post with the exact width as the aiming black. With this post the aiming black will line up exactly telling the shooter his aim is correct. Still some shooters have trouble seeing the front post clearly and a wider more course post works better for them. There is no right or wrong here. Eyesight is very individual and the competitor will have to find out what works the best for him.
How to Remove and Replace the AR-15 Sight Aperture
The sight base does not have to be removed from the upper receiver. Under the aperture housing is a small stamped concave metal spring that works like a leaf or torsion type spring. It exerts upward pressure on the aperture housing. The problem here is when you start to back the windage screw out of the sight base screw holes. The spring’s upward pressure will cock the screw on an angle and in order to remove the screw you will have to turn the screw to unscrew it from the aperture. If the screw is on angle it can strip the threads and the bearing area under the screw head can also get damaged.
What you have to do here is make sure you keep firm downward pressure with your thumb on top of the aperture, while turning the screw out of the aperture. The screw should turn freely. If it gets tight, stop immediately and make sure everything is straight and that you have downward pressure on the aperture.
First, remove the windage knob. To do this you have to back up the knob with a block of wood or something before driving the roll pin out of the knob, or you risk bending the screw. I have a piece of 2x4 nailed on the wall and what I do is have someone help me by holding the rifle close to the 2x4 with the knob resting on it, then I drive the pin out with a 1/16” punch. You do not have to drive it all the way out, just enough to free the knob. Once the pin starts moving easily you can move away from the backup and tap it out further. It usually just takes a few taps to loosen the pin up and you then won't be in danger of bending the screw. Be careful you don't lose the little ball bearing and coil spring under the knob.
Use a plastic screwdriver or a piece of tape across the blade to keep from scratching the finish on the screw. Turn the screw until the aperture gets close (maybe a 1/16" ) to the right side of the sight base (windage knob side). You do not have to exert the downward pressure to do this. Now, exerting the downward pressure I mentioned above, pull the aperture to the left. This will remove or almost remove the end of the screw from the right side sight base hole. Now very carefully, keep the downward pressure and keep the screw and aperture straight while you continue to turn the screw until it is out of the aperture. Pay attention to the threads and the bearing area under the screw head. The screw should turn freely at all times, if it does not, something is not straight.
When you reassemble, use a dab of grease under the stamped metal spring to keep it in place and another dab on the bottom of the new aperture to lubricate it. Also use a very tiny dab under the ball bearing on the windage knob to hold it and the spring in place while you are reassembling the windage knob. Before reassembling the knob, the roll pin should be inserted partially and when you squeeze the knob close to the sight base (to overcome the coil springs pressure) you can check that the knob is lined up right by inserting a stray pin, safety pin, etc. through the roll pin. It should come out the other side. Now you can tap the roll pin all the way in. Be careful not to drive the pin too far or your punch will damage the windage knob.